Hi, My truck just recently started to vibrate like it is going over rumble strips. It only happens over 40MPH and sporadically. Once it starts if I let off the gas or give it more gas it goes away. It reoccurs anywhere from 20 seconds up to a few minutes. There is no unusual noises or thuds if I go on and off the gas and the universal joints seem tight, and there is no vibrations from on steering wheel.
Please help before I end up in a ditch or worse. You just gave a classic, textbook description of what torque converter clutch TCC shudder is like. Yes it is an automatic. Oh no not Transmission. Money is tight any idea if this could wait about a month?
I put on about 8 miles a day 5 days a week. Thanks for your help. It could actually go a month - or years.
Top 5 Reasons Why Your Car Is Vibrating
This will likely shut down the TCC altogether. Do some general internet searches and read up on your transmission - its probably a 4L60E. Figure out what a TCC is, and how yours works.
Drive in a way that avoids the symptoms. Its not all that likely to help but it would make me feel better.
I just started searching the internet and if I just used the word shudder instead of rumble I would have found dozens of hits. Thanks again for help and letting me know the right terminology.Ranger handbook 2019 pdf
I will do the filter change too. Me again. I never answered you last questions. The check engine light is not on but it has come on now and again for the past few months but usually goes out the next time I start the truck.Action series
It is a Chevy 2wd with miles on it. It looks like the TCC is actually part of the torque converter. Is this correct? If so if I change the TC do you think this will solve the problem. If not what about putting in a new rebuilt transmission. These are both with in my skill set. I also found this on a truck site "A possible cause for the shudder is a bad torque converter clutch TCC solenoid or a bad torque converter clutch pulse width modulated solenoid PWM.
The TCC is in the torque converter but its control mechanisms are not and I would not bet on the converter being the central issue. Those solenoids also do burn up. The problem is that your issue could be in any of these things. The converter is actually a possibility. So is the bore.Hi Zach. Thanks for contacting us tonight.
The most common source of this issue is a loose vacuum line or even loose or faulty motor mounts. It is also possible that your ignition system components spark plugs, plug wires, and distributor are worn out and need to be replaced.
Q: Car shudders when accelerating and going uphill, seems like a loss of power, particularly around rpms. My car has miles. My car has an automatic transmission.
Truck Hesitates when accelerating
Tim Charlet Automotive Mechanic. Thank Tim. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback!
Q: Car shakes when pressing gas pedal
Sorry about that. Why wasn't this information helpful? Recommended Services. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details. Related Questions. Car struggles to accelerate by Juan. Why do I need to charge my car's battery ever week or two but I cannot find an obvious problem withe the electronic system.
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First, it's possible you have a coolant or vacuum leak within the system. Second, the AC compressor is damaged Read more.
Not getting no power, no lights, no crank, no radio, no start.This shaking continues at all speeds above that point, but once I let off the gas the shaking stops regardless of my speed.
What could be the culprit of this shaking. Hi there. Engine mounts are the component responsible for securing the engine of a vehicle to the chassis. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit a wide variety of needs, but they all serve the same purpose of mounting the engine and dampening engine vibration. This will allow them to isolate the source of the problem and recommend the correct repairs. Q: My car shakes when I accelerate, but stops once I let off the gas.
My car has miles. My car has an automatic transmission. Tim Charlet Automotive Mechanic. Thank Tim. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that. Why wasn't this information helpful? Recommended Services. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified.
Please see our terms of service for more details. Related Questions. Engine rebuild or swap.Your car can vibrate, shake, and create various types of noises for different reasons. If it particularly happens when you accelerate the engine, you can pin down the problems on common failures of several components. Knowing about them will help you with quick diagnosis and finding the correct fix before it gets worse. A bad torque converter could be the origin of rattling sound when accelerating at low speed.
If this happens, you should take the vehicle to a repair shop as soon as possible. The motor mount on the passenger side could be another obvious culprit. A ruptured mount will leak fluid everywhere. So, if you see dark lines of dripping oil underneath or on the frame next to the side mount, take it to a mechanic. You will need to have it diagnosed by a professional in that case. These components act as a thermo-reflective barrier between the exhaust system and other parts including gas tank, fuel lines, and the cabin of a car.
When they are loose or broken, they fail to completely block the heat transfer to these key areas. As a result, you will hear frightening rattles at higher speeds. You have to inspect the exhaust system to find out if heat shields are causing rattling noise in car when accelerating. However, do it only when the engine is off for several hours. The exhaust pipe and some other parts remain hot even after hours of switching the engine off.
The speed of these pulleys escalates with the engine speed. If they are slightly bent or loose, the metal-on-metal contact will create terrifying rattling sound when accelerating.
Open the hood and inspect the V-belts when the engine is off and running. If a pulley is bad, the belt will show damage in the form of frayed sides. The rattling noise appears when you start speeding up from 0 to maybe 30 or 40 mph and then disappear after car speed surpasses 40 mph.
In another circumstance, when your automobile is running at low speed the noise keeping coming out of car engine.Antimicrobial preservatives in cosmetics ppt
Moreover, you have the feeling that your car is holding back by something indefinable.Image courtesy of Pixabay. Diagnosing and discovering the cause of car trouble is already half the job done. Tires are one of the most common causes of car vibrations. One of the possible issues you might be dealing with in this context are out-of-balance tires.
The steering wheel, or even the entire car, will start to vibrate. The tires will also wear in a distinctive way, so check whether any flat spots have developed around the tire. If the damage is too big, you might have to replace the tire. If not, having the tire rebalanced should do the trick.
If your car has larger tires, similar symptoms can actually signal that they are underinflated. Fix the problem by restoring the tire to the air pressure specified by the manufacturer. The vibrations might also be the result of uneven tire wear. One way to avoid future tire related issues is to learn how to read the tread pattern — check your tires regularly and you will be able to spot signs of trouble in time.
Vibrations caused by wheels are usually felt through the steering wheel. One of the possible culprits for this might be worn or damaged wheel bearings.Spencer reid imagines protective
Though they should generally last for the whole lifetime of your vehicle, as with any other mechanical part, they can go out at any time, for a number of reasons. Another thing to look for are the tie rod ends or ball joints.
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Wheel runout might be yet another cause of car vibrations. This wheel issue might result in either up and down vibrations or a sideways, wobbly motion in a wheel. This issue manifests through jerks and shaking when your vehicle increases in speed, or rumbles within a specific speed range. To get ahold of this problem, you should check the spark plugs and install a new set if the old ones are worn out.When I'm driving on the freeway and stepping on the gas pedal, my car starts to shake.
It seems like something is wrong with the tires. If the vibration occurs only under acceleration, the tires are not the most likely culprit. Vibration caused by tires is common. Sometimes vibration can be better or worse at certain speeds, but unaffected by acceleration or deceleration.
The rear driveshaft or u-joints are more likely. Both should be checked though. Some u-joint problems can be located visually like rust dust around the grease seal indicating that the grease is gone. The best way is to remove the driveshaft and feel the movement of the joint, any binding or roughness will be greatly magnified when the power of a V8 is put to it.
If you have any doubts about your tires, pay to have them balanced. A good tire shop will check for bent wheels or a broken belt in the tire. Q: Car shakes when pressing gas pedal asked by Caroline H. Daniel Barker Automotive Mechanic. Thank Daniel. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that.
Why wasn't this information helpful? Recommended Services. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details.
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This can happen for many reasons such as a vacuum leak, weak fuel pump pressurebad ignition coil, low voltage to the fuel injectors causing pulse problems or a faulty mass air Read more.When I remove my foot from the accelerator, my '86 Land Cruiser makes a noticeable and resonating vibration. Yesterday, I was nosing around under the truck attempting to discover the source of the vibration.
When I grasped the rear drive shaft it has a second drive shaft for the front wheelsthere is noticeable free-play of about degrees in the shaft rotation. Is this normal for this truck?
Has anyone else encountered these symptoms? Thank you in advance for your comments. Noticable free play of degrees is NOT normal. Check the amount of movement when you rotate the driveshaft versus movement at the transfer case yoke and rear axle yoke. The universal joints should be much tighter than that, and I think yours are shot. I dont believe any free play should be there.
My terminology might be wrong, but I think you need a new driveshaft spline or yolk.
I dont think its uncommon for this repair to be needed on older vehicles. It might be a bolt up item or it might have to be welded on and then rebalanced.Damacai zodiac
One other thought though, or question; If the driveshaft was the culprit, my guess is that whatever RPM youre at during mph, the problem would present itself at other speeds doing the same RPM. Careful inspection of the rear driveshaft by an experienced mechanic should be step one.
I once had a case where the driveshaft was slightly bent from hitting a hoist and it was never diagnosed until it came to my shop. On my Ford 4WD truck there is absolutely no free play at all when doing the experiment you did.
I think in certain vehicles there could be some play observed by twisting the driveshaft, but that play would be coming from the differential and xfer case. Icantdrive55 July 4,pm 1. Sounds as if your U-joints are shot and need replacing.
BustedKnuckles July 6,am 3. Fender July 6,am 4.
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